Climbing grades v to french It was designed to rate hiking trails in general, not just climbing, 4 was the starting grade for a leisurely technical hike and 5 was the starting grade for a vertical surface that actually required climbing. We in Sardinia (and Italy) use mostly the French chart. The UK initially adopted the ‘Font’ grading system and then, over time, the ‘V’ grading system. 2 5. For Americans or trad climbers it may be difficult to relate it to their usual system and understand how hard a climbing route may be. For example, a route with a high adjectival grade, but low numbered grade (within the scope of the adjectival grade), will be a safe route. Grade II: Half a day for the tech­ni­cal por­tion. Although bolted sport climbs tend to be given a single French grade, traditional climbs in Britain are graded using two figures, an adjectival and a technical grade. This system assigns numerical values to climbing routes, ranging from 3 to 9c, with higher numbers indicating greater difficulty. Grade V: Typ­i­cal­ly requires an overnight on the route. Make sure you’re comparing apples to apples! Rock Climbing Grade Conversion Chart French 6b 9b Yosemite 5. Understand the Context: grades are subjective and can vary based on region, climbing style, and even the conditions on the day you climb. Sep 16, 2021 · Bouldering Grades vs. 1. I. ) or even continents (Ewbanks, YDS) and sometimes they got exported to and established themselves in different areas making some grade systems more ubiquitous There are no letters or secondary grades, just a single number that gets bigger as the routes get harder. 13a 5 13b 5. I remember white is V 7 and up. The Old SA grading was used in many of the older traditional climbing areas but is seldom used today. nu, even though taking the full grade felt like “cheating. They’re designed for very different kinds and styles of climbing and routes. Grade I: Less than half a day for the tech­ni­cal por­tion. Nov 3, 2023 · 6a Boulder to V Scale: For those specifically searching for the "6a to V scale" conversion, here it is: 6a in the Fontainebleau (Font) grading system is approximately equivalent to V3 in the V scale. Adam Ondra on the sport climbing route Silence, the hardest free climbing route in the world and the first-ever at 9c (French), 5. In the French Sport system, grades begin at 1 and increase to 9. The Yellow Wall on the Diamond is usually graded V. 13c in order to bypass her husband, Chris Weidner, on 8a. Climbing grades provide guidance, suggesting the length of time an experienced climber might take to complete the route: Grade I: A couple of hours; Grade II: Closer to four hours; Grade III: Four to six hours (most of the day) Grade IV: One very long day; Grade V: Two days (requires an overnight stay) Grade VI: Two-plus days Oct 23, 2023 · The Bouldering V Scale. 5b 5a 4c 4b 4a 3c 5c 6a 6b 6c 7a 35 XI-XI XIa XIb XIc XIIa XIIb II II I I 11 10 5. The "7" refers to the difficulty of the climb, the higher the number the harder the climb. French Alpine Grades. Refer to ‘French Sport Grades’, outlined above, for further details. So really 7a is comparable to 11d, which seems to jibe with most of the conversions I've seen. 15 (paroi très déversante). They’re tools to help you choose climbs aligned with your abilities and goals. In the United States for sport climbing and other forms of rock climbing we use the Yosemite Decimal System. Each section is assigned a grade, either a V-grade for a crux or a YDS grade (e. As we’ve already discovered, the US use the Yosemite Decimal System , which goes from 1 to 5 and describes everything from an easy walk (1) to technical rock climbing (5). Dec 28, 2021 · In context, Font 9A is the grade of the world’s two hardest boulder problems. 1 Yosemite Decimal System; 1. Sport climbing grades are typically denoted using the Yosemite Decimal System (YDS) in the United States, ranging from 5. In fact, it was John Gill’s B-system, advanced over a half-century ago as Gill devoted himself almost exclusively to bouldering, that set the stage for today’s popular, open-ended V-system. Some gyms use the classic V-grade system, marking each boulder problem with a V-grade on a tag or piece of tape at its start. Instead, simply use them as a guide to find the type of challenge you are looking for. Consider the Climbing Style: sport climbing, traditional climbing, and bouldering can have different grading nuances. You’re most likely to come across it at climbing walls (including our own), but it’s also used for bolted outdoor sport climbs. Please visit them on the web at www. John Gill’s B-system For Bouldering In the 50s and 60s bouldering was seen more as a pastime or fun training for the real stuff – wall climbing. It is all subjective. Feb 6, 2016 · The French climbing grades system is numerical, starting at 1, and each grade is subdivided with letters e. A 5 Font bouldering grade converts to a V1 in the v scale. In general, theCrag displays grades as they are entered and in the area specific context. The American YDS system is the dominant system in North America, and it and the French numerical system are the most dominant systems worldwide; beyond the easiest grades, they can be exactly aligned. Grade VII: Multi-pitch routes with long sections of vertical or thin ice, or mixed routes with lots of highly technical climbing. Jul 17, 2024 · Bouldering grades were already in the V-grading system, but sport climbing grades required conversion to French grades, and then to numerical values. Sport climbing routes are rated using the French scale. 15 (most difficult), with subgrades Apr 27, 2025 · The French 8a+ grade represents the upper end of the sport climbing difficulty scale. Both 6a and 6a+ graded boulders in the font system convert into a V3 bouldering grade in the North American V-scale. However, you will find that most indoor rock climbing levels use the French sport climbing grades. . The French grading scale begins at 1 and currently goes up to 9 Feb 14, 2024 · What does the “V” stand for in bouldering grades? The “V” in bouldering grades stands for “Verm” or “Vermin,” a nod to John “Vermin” Sherman, who played a significant role in popularizing the V Scale grading system. ). It’s pretty standard practice for most climbers to look at grades to gauge a climb, plan for crux sections, and steer clear of climbs that exceed Apr 13, 2025 · Decode YDS, French, and V-grade systems, track skill progression, and choose routes matched to your level. The French Alpine Grading Jan 31, 2011 · I think it might depend on whether you are comparing grade 5's at your local climbing wall, which are usually a doddle, or real grade 5's on French sport climbing crags, which tend to be significantly harder. The Australian climbing grade scale for technical scrambling and rock routes, another open-ended rating system, runs from 1 (~YDS 3) to 39 (5. "Grades are subjective" - OK, that's out of the way. This is a bouldering climbing grade conversion chart. These grades help other climbers judge whether it is suitable for their level. Comparison Table: Fontainebleau Grade (Font) Approximate V Scale 7a+ V7 7b V8 7b+ V8 / V9 (Note: As always, grading rema Yet I hope this bouldering grades conversion table will help you get a little grasp on this difficult subject. I had a hard time finding a chart online that converts the Sherman V-grade system for bouldering into the Yosemite Decimal System for climbing. It must be noted, this is an open-ended scale, so there could be harder grades in the future! Are bouldering grades harder than sport climbing grades? It is hard to compare! Even so, as a boulderer, I would lean towards saying, “yes”. 12d 5. Though the grades don't quite line up with French. International Climbing Grade Comparison Chart. 15d 5. And there is a lettering system 5b < 5c < 6a. Grade VII: Remote big walls climbed in alpine style. 15b 5. 15d (American YDS), and XII+ (UIAA). Oct 12, 2020 · The French Scale is to the YDS what the metric system is to the American measurement system. The 7a is the median of the advanced range. However, UK traditional or ‘trad’ as well as winter climbing grades offer more information about a climb than simply how hard the climbing is. Keep that in mind for later. I don't know if I agree with chart. . Climbing grades may seem confusing at first, but with experience, they become intuitive. Note that the YDS classes are subjective and can vary depending on the person’s experience and the specific route being climbed or hiked. The system for grading traditionally protected climbs in BMC guides is the traditional, two-part British grade, a combination of the adjectival and technical grades. Comparison Table: Fontainebleau Grade (Font) Approximate V Scale 7c+ V10 8a V11 8a+ V12 (Note: Keep in mind that grading is Feb 20, 2023 · Climbing Grades Comparison Chart. Ranking Guide - Rankings explained in great detail from rockclimbing. 1/5. Grade conversion between the two scales isn’t easy—the Font Scale has more grade options than the V Scale, and both scales are subject to regional differences and individual climbers’ body types, opinions, and skill sets—but in general, here’s how the two scales Below you will find a table of the grading systems used for climbing in different countries as well as those used in Switzerland for different mountain sports. This document shows a comparison of different rock climbing grading systems used internationally. 13a), the Dungeon, Staunton State Park, Colorado. Grade V: Requires a day and a half with the hardest pitch being at least 5. How Are Climbs Rated - From Dawn's FAQ over on TradGirl web site. Dec 9, 2024 · Kann ich Boulder-Schwierigkeitsgrade aufs Klettern übertragen? Die Antwort lautet: Nur bedingt. Comparison Table: Fontainebleau Grade (Font) Approximate V Scale 8b+ V14 8c V15 8c+ V16 (Note: Remember that climbing grades are sub There are grade systems for bouldering, grade systems for sport climbing, grade systems for aid climbing and so on but even grade systems for the same style don’t always translate well between each other. Nov 16, 2005 · In bouldering, for example, the French (Fontainebleau) scale includes six steps for each level (e. Differences with Sport climbing grades. The name of the scale was shortened to the Font scale, but it is also a numerical scale. 0 to 5. Additionally, grades can be influenced by outside factors. Climbing grades, including those in the V scale and the French system, are consensus-based and can vary from region to region. May 31, 2020 · The Nose on El Capitan is 5. A British technical 5a is slightly harder than a French 5a. 15d). You may have climbed French 6c routes but climbing Font 6c is another story. If you already feel confident in your knowledge of Discover hidden site aspects with multiple Climbing, Caving and Abseil activities. Safety is […] It consists of two categories, Technical Grade and Adjectival Grade. Free climbing grades run the gamut. The above appears courtesy of the American Alpine Journal. Each type has its own grading system, which allows climbers to compare the difficulty of different routes within their chosen discipline. I only very rarely boulder outdoors but indoors I certainly attach UK tech grades to problems graded with V grades and I can tell the difference between V4, 6a and V4, 6b. 7A is a sport climbing route and 7A is a bouldering route, with contrasting difficulties. Frequent use of hands is required to support balance and hand and foot-holds must be trusted: Ⅱ – + Second grade: Here real climbing begins, that requires the movement of a limb at a time and a proper setting of the movements. 6a to V-scale. Very long multi-pitch climbs often requiring aid climbing. But here's the twist-they're also subjective. Denali via the Cassin Ridge route is 5. The Casual Route on Longs Peak is Grade IV. 12b, the other a grade of 5. It may seem confusing to those not used to the system, eg, climbers who might have only climbed indoors, or who have only sport climbed (these both tend to use French grades. The two main free climbing grading systems (which include the two main free climbing disciplines of sport climbing and traditional climbing) are the "French numerical system" and the "American YDS system". Maybe I'm dumb and it's all over the Internet, not sure why I had a hard time with this. An important trigger for the increasing research attention has been the transition of the sport to a competitive as well as recreational activity and this has been heightened with the inclusion of sport climbing in the Tokyo 2020 Olympic schedule. Nov 13, 2023 · Class 4: Simple rock climbing with the use of ropes for safety. Dec 1, 2018 · On one hand, sport climbing grades provide a scale of difficulty which enables relatively easy comparison. French 9a is expert-level, but a long way behind sport climbing’s cutting edge. You will have the opportunity to try different climbing techniques on natural; Smearing slabs, lay-back flake, arete and face climbs, off-width crack through to proper chimney cracks. This system ranges from V0 (easiest) to potentially unlimited difficulty. Grade IV: A full day of technical climbing, generally at least with a difficulty of 5. Just like the metric system, the French system arguably makes more sense than the American counterpart. Yes, we know the definitions of subjective and objective. V-grades or the V-scale (also sometimes called the 'Hueco' scale) was established in 1991 by American bouldering pioneer John 'Verm' Sherman - that's where the V comes from! Sherman used the scale to grade problems in his book Hueco Tanks Climbing and Bouldering Guide. It’s also important to note that French bouldering grades (Font grades) are written in a way very similar to French sport grades. No, we're not trying to seem all intellectual (okay, maybe a little bit Apr 27, 2025 · What is French Sport Grade 7a? French Sport Grade 7a is a notable milestone on the sport climbing grading scale. Rock Climbs. Bouldering: US ‘V’ Grades. Grades Are Subjective. This bouldering grades comparison table is designed to help climbers convert from Hueco to French and back to French to V-Scale. Pink is the easiest, then red, orange, yellow, green, blue, black, white. The comparison was never Jun 5, 2023 · Indoor climbing grades tend to follow the same grading system as the country that gym is it. Descriptions of these, and the other systems you might encounter elsewhere in the world are provided below: ROUTE GRADING SYSTEMS Table courtesy of Rockfax. French numerical grades. 4a, 4b, 4c, 5a, 5b. 0 (easiest) to 5. 15 (hardest). 8 in difficulty. The first recorded climbing grade system was introduced by the Austrian mountaineer Fritz Benesch in 1894. South African rock climbing grades are very similar to Australian, with the exception that the upper end of the scale is currently at 41. Mar 30, 2023 · For bouldering, on the other hand, there are varying systems in place. The It is considered technical roped free climbing; belaying is used for safety. The ‘V’ grades go from V0 to V15, and are potentially open ended. 5, for example, was a hike that included a fair amount Rock Climbing Grades See Our Complete Guide to USA Climbing Grades Rock climbing is graded on both the technical difficulty of the climb and the commitment of the climb. com web site. International Mountaineering and Climbing Grade Comparison Chart. 1 What is the Difficulty in Rock Climbing Grades?. After a year and a half of climbing, I've just recently broken into the blue tags, which I believe are V That's not french 7a bouldering its a french 7a route grade. Each one is designed to be simple. A 5. When I first looked for a useful comparison between A legendary boulderer at the time, John Sherman, created the ‘V’ grade system – the ‘V’ stood for ‘Verm or Vermin’ which was his nickname at the time. A direct comparison between the New Zealand (Mt Cook/ Frost grading system) developed in 2018, and the French Alpine Grade, UIAA Grade and the Russian Grade is no longer as linear as the Mt Cook/ Logan grading system of 1982. Ce système classifie les niveaux de difficulté par des chiffres qui vont de 5. VI – Long vertical ice, often serious and snowed up rock routes of Very Severe and above. Just my opinion though Mar 17, 2012 · Bouldering is a bit different than some other forms of rock climbing and it has its own grades, the V-scale, for defining the difficulty of the climb. YDS to French grade and French grade to Yosemite is the most common conversion climbers are looking for when sports climbing. YDS assigns a numerical grade to each climb, ranging from 5. I and II: Half a day or less for the technical (5th class) portion of… Read More »Climbing Grade The British Trad Grade is a compound grade evolved from a climbing ethic strongly biased towards onsight traditional or ‘trad’ climbing. Nov 3, 2023 · 8c Boulder to V Scale: Inquiring about the "8c to V scale" conversion? Here it is succinctly: an 8c in the Fontainebleau (Font) grading system typically corresponds to V15 in the V scale. Bouldering Grades Bouldering grades are typically indicated by the V-scale, ranging from V0 to V16. A 5+ (sometimes graded as 5b or 5c) can be converted into a V2 bouldering grade on the V-scale. May 31, 2024 · The complexity and nuances of climbing grades highlight the subjective nature of assessing climbing difficulties, whether it be on a bouldering problem or a sport climbing route. UK French US Aust. Bouldering Grades vs Climbing Grades. Oct 15, 2021 · The two bouldering grading systems are the V Scale (used in the United States) and the Font Scale (used outside the US). Bouldering Grades The difference is that with the YDS they have a, b, c and d on top of the number grade, but in the French system, each a, b, and c grade is split again by adding a plus symbol to the harder of the two grades. As a result, climbing grades are usually pretty uniformly applied in a single region. Standards vary among climbing areas. Here's the link if you're interested. org. One has a grade of 5. From rock climbing to aid climbing and water ice climbing, there are many different systems. Dec 10, 2019 · The pure and simple reason for this is because they are most commonly used internationally, and better still because they avoid the inevitable confusion that occurs when people mix the Fontainebleau bouldering grades with French route grades. font I also from France and uses the same grades so it's a bit confusing but that's just the way it is Grade II: Half a day of technical climbing; Grade III: Most of the day will be required for the technical portion of the route. Grades are used in rock climbing gyms and outdoors. Jan 6, 2024 · Climbing grades aren’t standardized globally, so appreciate local nuances. Nov 3, 2023 · 6c Boulder to V Scale: For those specifically searching for the "6c to V scale" conversion, here it is: 6c in the Fontainebleau (Font) grading system is approximately equivalent to V5 in the V scale. 7 (or the equivalent snow/alpine grade) Grade V: The route will likely require an overnight stay in the middle of the technical portion. The French use this system for most things (apart from bouldering, for which they use the Font scale, and big Alpine routes, for which they use the UIAA scale, and mixed sport climbing, for which they use the M scale) and the British use it for sport climbing, where seriousness isn't a factor. It’s a grade where routes are no longer for beginners or weekend climbers. 3/5. Embrace the learning curve, and you’ll navigate the climbing world with confidence. 5 5. Adds more climbing specific strength, and adds a bit more technique. Dec 9, 2024 · Let's talk about climbing grades. S. Many gyms use a coloured V-grade range system, wherein the colour of the tape or holds on a problem correspond to a range of V-grades. Please comment if you find something that should be updated. Sep 15, 2012 · Sport Climbing: French Sport Grades. Sep 5, 2021 · Simply put, a climbing grade describes the difficulty of the terrain on the route. 9. It differs from the USA system in that a route that is difficult to protect will get a higher grade. Unlike the V scale, the Font climbing grades also include letters to help differentiate between easier and more challenging boulder problems. Grade III: Most of a day for the tech­ni­cal por­tion. The technical scale refers purely to the technical requirements of a route. Feb 26, 2021 · Arguably, this is where bouldering began, and the open-ended grade scale that was developed ranges from 1A to 9A (at time of writing). A bold route with easy climbing, may get the same grade as a much harder sport route, so the grade isn’t very versatile. The idea of the Trad Grade is to give a representation of the whole climb, including overall difficulty, how good the trad climbing gear is (or isn’t) and the hardest single move on the route. The most commonly used grading systems for sport climbing include the French (e. UIAA German adj. In the 1950s, legendary godfather of American bouldering, John Gill, was grading boulders on a super simple scale ascending from B1 to B3. The French is used in Europe and other regions. g. The hardest grade currently is the V17 (9a), this is the top end of the sport and it is very rarely achieved. 15. Table of Contents. French Grades. Mar 24, 2022 · The V-grades and French Fontainebleau grades that are today’s gold standards took time to disseminate, with other scales proposed along the way. ) John “Vermin” Sherman started the V scale in the early days of bouldering at Hueco Tanks, Texas — the American mecca of I go bouldering at a gym in Norway and this is their grading system. 6b to V-scale V is only bouldering, V5 is font 6c+ V6 is font 7a font is the bouldering grading system that's used in Europe a lot, French is for sport climbing. COM 6B 6B+ 7B 8B CRUX RAN (In theory the bouldering grades have upper-case letters, and the route grades have lower-case letters, which the Rock Climbing table gets wrong). Some routes or boulders may be graded by the hardest move, while others feel like they factor in rests. What this rainforest site lacks in sheer height makes up for in variety of routes. , 5. Apr 29, 2024 · Like the YDS and French rating system, the V-system is open ended, allowing for advances in climbing ability over time. What is a respectable bouldering grade? Sport Grades Some boulder problems, in particular traverses, contain more moves than a lot of routes out there. However, they may differ between regions. 11) and the YDS (Yosemite Decimal System) grades. A mistake often made is to combine the Australian & South African grades as the same, in fact they are about a grade apart and even more at the upper grades. Each color tag indicates a range of two or three V grades. Grade IV: A full day of technical climbing, generally at least 5. 4 5 10b 5. Gregory Hart has helped us out to update our grade converter. Also, France developed the French Scale for French grades. Jun 5, 2023 · It’s so easy to get caught up with the grades, but it’s a good idea not to place too much weight on grades while climbing. A boulderer of V1 ability, for example, will notice a greater spread in that one grade, with some feeling a lot harder than others; she might therefore find the font system more helpful. Mar 17, 2023 · 5 (font) to V-scale. From V0 to V9, you have a 1:1 correspondence with YDS and V. Conversion Chart: YSD vs. French grades start at 1, with that being very easy climbing. Usually with 4's and 5's you can get away with not having strong strength if your technique is flawless (which most casual climbers also don't have), but to get past 6's (onto 7's) you need strong climbing strength So the grades are broken up into two parts like so HVS 5a == Adjectively HVS, technically 5a. Climbers need to demonstrate exceptional strength, technique and endurance to complete these ascents. Grade III – The rock structure is becoming steeper or even vertical. Keep reading: A Beginner’s Guide to Mountaineering The French Numerical System, also known as the French Sport Climbing Grade, is widely used in Europe and other parts of the world. The French Scale is much more convertible between its top-rope and bouldering equivalents, while the YDS and American bouldering scale, the V scale, are not as convertible. Holds and supports are Feb 19, 2021 · Rock climbing grades are used to describe the difficulty of climbing routes. For example, a 5c UK Trad grade is closer matched to a 6b French. It isn’t too helpful to compare across scales, but it Grade V: Sustained ice to 80º or mixed climbs with linked hard moves. Rock climbing grades are assigned by climbers who have completed the route, not an outside authority. e. a 5b+. Feb 14, 2025 · Climbing grades differ by region or even by crag within the same area. Sport Climbing Grades Two graded climbing routes at an American climbing gym. Apr 27, 2025 · Can I convert French climbing grades directly to the V Scale? Can I convert French climbing grades directly to the V Scale? The French Scale is applied to long routes and the V Scale is applied to short boulder problems. Our secret (or maybe not so secret anymore) tip for your hands after climbing: Aug 18, 2017 · Let's take a look at how to read grades on the French scale by examining the grade 7a+. How do climbing grades change over time? Oct 13, 2019 · Of course, there cannot be equivalence between UK tech grades and V (or Font) grades, because they are measuring different things (hardest move and overall grade). Fontainebleau French. 6a to 6c+), compared to the V-scale that includes only three steps. Both refer to traditional climbing. The rock offers holds and features for hands and feet, although you will need to use more force to climb securely. Traditional and winter grades can also help provide insight about the style and seriousness Nov 5, 2020 · Do you know why a something described as 'Very Difficult' is easier than something labelled 'E1'? Or why the grade E2 5a can elicit shudders whereas HVS 6a brings forth a rueful smile?!In order to understand UK trad grades, it’s useful to also understand the concept of the French grading system (usually used for sport and indoor climbing). Sometimes a + symbol is also added to show a route that’s slightly harder than it’s grade but not tough enough for the next grade up e. [2] Jan 28, 2022 · Australian Climbing Grades. It is important to remember that when you are looking at climbing grades, you may consider a grade “easier” or more “difficult” than what it has been graded. The table is intended for outdoor climbing, and we established it before places like Kalymnos came along and messed up European grading. Whilst it may appear similar to the French sport grade, the two are not the same - Font grades are much harder - so to distinguish between the two, Font grades have upper case letters (8A), and sport grades First up on ‘rock climbing grades explained’ is the French sport grading system. 12b 5. 5B - Ascent (at least 700 m) on a peak between 3000-7500 m or traverses at this height. The grades are broken into categories like beginner, medium, advanced, expert, super expert, elite, and super elite. This means that there are variations in difficulty based on personal experience and climbing style. French route Jan 24, 2025 · We also have a Grades comparison table for converting between different grading system used around the world. Nov 19, 2019 · V – Sustained steep ice of 80°, or climbing on snowed up rock routes, which would warrant rock climbing grades of Severe – Very Severe in summer. Weidner has, with work, been unable to decouple route grades from her feelings about performance, though she jokes that she once took full points on a soft 5. They're the way climbers objectively measure the difficulty of different climbs. Aug 24, 2023 · Before we jump into the specifics of climbing grades, let’s first take a look at the three main types of climbing: bouldering, sport climbing, and traditional climbing. a 7b route is around 5. Grade Description of UIAA Grades; Ⅰ – + First grade: It is the easiest kind of scramble. The technical difficulty is based on the hardest move of the climb, so even if a climb is mostly easy climbing but has one hard move, the technical rating will be that or the hardest mo Grade III: Most of a day for the technical portion. A system known as a grade is used in rock climbing venues within rock climbing gyms and outdoors in climbing regions. 5 14b 5. 13-. Photo Galleries; My Photo Gallery; Latest Photos; Weekly Top 10; Videos; Latest Videos; Categories; Hashtags; Athletes; Search Nov 3, 2023 · 8a Boulder to V Scale: For climbers looking to understand the "8a to V scale" conversion, 8a in the Fontainebleau (Font) grading system is generally considered equivalent to a V11 in the V scale. The French numerical system (distinct from the adjectival system, described later) rates a climb according to the overall technical difficulty Apr 11, 2025 · V-GRADES. 2 could easily become a 5. Canadian Winter Commitment Grade: The British Trad Grade is a compound grade evolved from a climbing ethic strongly biased towards onsight traditional or ‘trad’ climbing. Grade V: Typically requires an overnight on the route. While the previous post discussed mountaineering grades, how to read them and how separate systems compare, this one will discuss the free climbing grades. It lists climbing grades from French, UIAA, US, British, Australian, and bouldering scales ranging from beginner to expert levels. Grades can be subjective and may vary slightly between locations or setters. Climbing Grades vs. Adjectival and Numbered Grades Combined. Here, climbing is done exclusively with trad gear. TECHNICAL GRADE. To account for their length, these problems are occasionally given sport climbing grades. Even if they have the same grading system in mind. Traditional and winter grades can also help provide insight about the style and seriousness Nov 3, 2023 · 7b Boulder to V Scale: For those specifically searching for the "7b to V scale" conversion, here it is: 7b in the Fontainebleau (Font) grading system is approximately equivalent to V8 in the V scale. As I started to rock climb I got confused by these different rating systems and their Grade III: Most of a day for the technical portion. Un-roped falls can result in severe injury or death. Grade VI: Vertical ice and highly technical mixed routes. ” Nov 8, 2023 · The Font scale, or the Fontainebleau scale, is named after the famous French climbing area called Fontainebleau. Grade II – Here climbing begins, that requires climbing movement - holds and features for hands and feet are abundant. I’m not sure if this is a bouldering system or a sport climbing system as the gym has both and I’ve not checked if the high wall has a separate system. Aug 30, 2021 · But what goes into climbing grades, and why do they so often involve so many letters and numbers? Climbing is rife with technical jargon, and trying to decode the abbreviations can seem daunting. These figures are meant to provide a general sense of the level of skill expected for a route. Cotations françaises, américaines, britaniques, brésiliennes, australiennes, UIAA, Font grades, V grades. The Yosemite Decimal System is a sports climbing grading system used primarily in United States and countries that follow the US grading system. Traverses combine at least two routes of Grade 4B and 1 route of Grade 4A. A brief history of climbing grades. My gym uses as lowest grade a 2, which is a kiddie-route for birthdayparties. Bouldering Grades Our climbing grades convertors (both classic routes and boulders) have been made by great climbers, French grades: France, Spain, Switzerland These bouldering grades differ from the grades used in traditional rock climbing, and use many different systems including: Huevo "V" grades-or the V-scale, Fontainebleau technical grades (Font-scale), route colors, Peak District grades, and British technical grades. What do these grades translate to in V-grade and British system? Climbing Grades - An explanation of British climbing grades and comparison with other systems. We have left out E-grades above E8 as we do not find any logic to try to convert them any further. The route would have long sections of III-IV with pitches of up to 50 m of V and short sections of VI, or snow and ice sections of 600-800 m or more of V. However, always remember: climbing grade systems are devised by people who sleep in the dirt and live in caves. The two grades can then be used together to understand how bold or safe a route will feel. How can something be both objective and subjective? It's a bit of a paradox, but we'll unravel it. Boulder werden normalerweise nach ihren schwersten Stellen bewertet, wohingegen beim Routenklettern sowohl die Ausdauerkomponente als auch der Anspruch durch das Einhängen der Zwischensicherungen wie Expressschlingen, Klemmkeile oder Friends eine große Rolle spielen können. There is some overlap, for example red might be V 1-3 while orange is V 2-4. 2 French Adjectival System; 1. Before climbing a route, it is likely vital to know the route's grade, which is determined by the consensus of climbers who have successfully finished the route. 4 in bad weather. The Alaska grades are also geared towards mountaineering as well as . IMO there's no reason to compare bouldering grades to sport route grades, because they're completely different disciplines of climbing. Grade VI: Multi-day climb with many technical pitches requiring difficult free climbing and aid as Sep 12, 2016 · The research base for rock climbing has expanded substantially in the past three decades as worldwide interest in the sport has grown. YDS ran up to 5, with 5 being the hardest moves known at that point. Mar 25, 2024 · Transitioning from Sport Climbing Grades. Un convertisseur ludique et fiable des différents systèmes de cotations en voies. And it was linear, so a trail rated 4. Grade VI: Two or more days of hard technical climbing. 13c 5 13d 5. But what goes into climbing grades, and why do they involve so many letters and numbers? Climbing is rife with technical jargon, and trying to decode the abbreviations can seem daunting. Climbing Mt. com. That's when they started to use exponents in grade 5. Jun 8, 2020 · On one hand, sport climbing grades provide a scale of difficulty which enables relatively easy comparison. Apr 10, 2025 · UK scrambling grades range from Grade 1 to Grade 3, with 3 being the hardest and akin to moderate rock climbing. Bouldering grade systems in wide use include the Hueco “V” grades (known as the V-scale), Fontainebleau technical grades, and more. In my eyes, that makes your chart way way sandbagged for the lower V grades, and way cruiser for the higher V grades. The French Alpine grading system is unique in that rather than quantifying the difficulty numerically, it uses a broader “adjectival” system to record difficulty, length, altitude, and seriousness of the climb all in one grade. YDS or Yosemite can alos be Jan 31, 2025 · The system then calculates a total grade based on these inputs, minimizing the biases found in traditional grading methods. 3 British Technical Grade (TG) System; 2 How Can You Use Grading Information to Choose Climbs that are Appropriate for Your Ability Level and Experience? May 26, 2021 · Heather Weidner soaking up sun on the pumpy Intolerance Test (5. Bouldering grades: V scale and french grade conversion? The French Alpine system is close, but it really applies to mountaineering and alpine climbing. 12b, whereas a 7B boulder equals V7, which is 5. 2 D F1 M V13 4 4c 5a 5b 5c 6a 6b 6c 7a 7b 3 4+ 5 5+ 6a 6a+ 6b 6b+ 6c 6c+ 7a 7a+ 7b 7b+ 7c 7c+ 8a 8a+ 8b B1 B2 B3 B4 B5 B6 B7 B8 B9 B10 B11 B12 B13 V12 V11 V10 V9 V8 V7 V6 V5 V4 V3 V2 V1 V0+ V0 V0-V grade UK technical Jun 23, 2024 · There are different types of indoor climbing grades that are used for various climbing disciplines such as bouldering, top-rope climbing, and lead climbing. The best way to approach the conversion is to travel, go climbing and get used to the different grades! Have fun! P. For example, if you go to the gym in the UK, most of Europe and Asia, you’ll find French climbing grades. National Climbing Classification System (USA): NCCS grades, often called “commitment grades,” indicate the time investment in a route for an “average” climbing team. 10, 5. So 4 < 5 < 6. Bouldering and sport climbing are two related but different disciplines and therefore different grading scales have been created for each. YDS USA French Ewbanks Australia/NZ UIAA South Africa British UK; 3rd: 1-1: I: 1: Even today, many grade systems are confined to certain geographical areas, sometimes climbing areas (e. The V scale was developed in the USA and is a system that currently starts with VB for the simplest bouldering problems and goes all the way up to V17 for super experienced professionals. We plan to replace the old 8a converter with this new one. In order to compare and translate other scales to the French, it is sometimes neccessary to use half grades. Saved Content. Anyways, since I had a hard time I just made one. After all, the same people are not climbing all the routes out there. Climbing Difficulty Ranking IntroductionClimbing is a sport of precision, strength, and mental endurance. Go to climbing r/climbing • View community ranking In the Top 1% of largest communities on Reddit. 12a) for a longer section, reflecting how that segment would feel when you’re fresh, right off the ground. Transitioning from sport climbing grades to bouldering grades can be a daunting task for climbers looking to expand their skill set. But as climbers techniques evolved they needed higher grades for harder routes. Bouldering grades are graded using different systems across different regions. So the french boulder grades are harder than the french route grades. americanalpineclub. table " plaisir grades "uiaa grades french scale grade uiaa grades french scale grade uiaa grades french scale grade i 1 iv + 4b vi + 6a/6a + ii 2 v- 4c vii- 6a + iii 3a v 4c/5a vii 6b/6b + iii + 3b v + 5b vii + 6b + / 6c iv- 3c vi- 5c viii- 6c + Historically the US system made more sense. These help you assess an outing and provide examples with information concerning the terrain and the conditions. The grades in a gym are just a subjective interpretation by the route setters, so difficulties varies a lot from gym to gym. 0 (semblable à l’ascension d’une échelle verticale en termes de difficulté) à 5. The following chart compares most of the available grading scales. Essential reading for rock climbers and boulderers. Apr 27, 2025 · Climbing grades, from 8a to V-scale, serve as a loose guideline and filter for climbing consumers. Grade IV: A full day of tech­ni­cal climb­ing, gen­er­al­ly at least 5. Comparison Table: Fontainebleau Grade (Font) Approximate V Scale 5+ V2 6a V3 6a+ V4 (Note: As always, grading can be som Tips for Using Climbing Grade Conversions. Conclusion. French System: The V-system is less sensitive at the lower and mid grades, with one grade covering the same degree of difficulty as one and a half to two Font grades. Australian 23 28 31 33 35 37 39 UIAA IX+/X- Xll+ 6b Hueco/V Font/Bleau Bouldering Grades vo- vo VI 4 CRUX RANGE. British Trad Grades: Widely misunderstood by anyone but the Brits but actually a very simple and effective system We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. YDS and French grades don’t always line up precisely, but below is a comparison chart showing how they compare. 9 C2, Grade VI. Meaning that for example if you look at a crag in Australia you will most likely see sport and trad climbing grades displayed in Ewbanks and bouldering grades in V-scale. Class 5: Technical rock climbing with increasing difficulty, subdivided into decimal sub-grades from 5. 8 WI4, Grade V. Hueco Tanks V scale (U. Bouldering and sport climbing are two siblings in the world of climbing. All guide books and Topos are only show this grading system. The V-scale is used to rate bouldering problems in the United States, starting at V0. Saxon, Fontainebleau), mostly countries (South African, Brazilian, French, etc. Dec 29, 2020 · UK technical grades were only designed to describe the difficulty of a single move making them unsuitable for grading boulders and V or Font grades are generally used instead. However, over time, it became clear that Gill’s grading system was incapable of defining accurate grades for the complexity of boulders being climbed. The V-system is the only bouldering system over-layed onto a route grading chart. Rock Climbing Grades: Rock climbing grades typically use one of several grading systems, with the most common being the Yosemite Decimal System (YDS) in the United States and the French numerical system (French grades) in Europe. This is where there is an obvious change in style and grade. This tends to be even more subjective that traditional grades, but lends itself well to the Feb 4, 2015 · Sometimes the conditions and the state of the routes can also influence the grades. The French sport system gives each route a difficulty grade consisting of a number between 1-9 (although technically it is open Universal grade conversion Back to contents . Comparison Table: Fontainebleau Grade (Font) Approximate V Scale 6b V4 6b+ V4 / V5 6c V5 (Note: As always, grading remai Pour en savoir plus sur les cotations, les contextes de cotations, les systèmes de cotations utilisés par pays, les cotations de protection, la conversion de cotations universelle et la façon dont theCrag attribue les cotations aux voies et aux ascensions, veuillez vous référer à l'article Les cotations dans theCrag. 10c 5 5. En Amérique du Nord, l’escalade sportive et l’escalade traditionnelle sont classifiées selon le Yosemite Decimal System (YDS). Since both the French sport climbing grade system and the French bouldering grade system function on letters and numbers, the mere difference is the capitalization of the bouldering grades. Grade VIII and above: The hardest routes in Scotland. 7. This article will cover the most widely recognized scales: the Vermin Scale (V-Scale) and the Fontainebleau Scale (French Scale). Use this chart as a rough guide to compare climbing and bouldering grades in other parts of the world. The technical part of the grade works just the same as French. The reason being that the width of grades on a specific scale are not comparable or that grades are not linear across the whole scale. Routes may feel substantially harder than their grade indicates depending on the weather, the length of the route, the type of rock, the whims of the first ascensionist, any number of factors. 3 F1/2 5. ppvjdbz chbvfgq yrcrcwx uegbph skgki lzplq qjufm prrg rskyjcn glnuxp