Best smearing rock climbing technique reddit. This 100%! Technique and body position.

Best smearing rock climbing technique reddit This technique requires the climber to use pressure and strength coming from the feet to create friction on the rock, instead of relying on shape edges or Apr 21, 2020 · There are many times, especially outdoors, when you don’t have any available footholds, and you feel helpless. I can’t seem to find any articles breaking down the physics of shoes other than “downturned toe does hooks, flat shoe do slabs”. Smearing vs. This helps you make bigger moves and climb My answer: depending on style and technique, it knocks me down two full grades inside and a little more outside depending on rock type and protection. This is a really good thing to point out and a weird movement to perform at first. “I first wore my helmet, but at one point was nearly hanging Feb 22, 2023 · Developing good footwork, body positioning, and efficient movement are essential to becoming a more well-rounded climber. The Outside flag is the most common, and easiest type of flag. Jul 6, 2024 · More about smearing. If you are looking to get some helpful tips for a beginner rock climber or ways to start rock climbing, you have come to the right place. lap dog named Lizzie. Starting out is always a fun and excited experience but it can sometimes be very daunting. 11a,” admits Chris Weidner, a Colorado traddie. Learn techniques. How to improve your technique then? Monitor what you're doing on the wall, climb more volume, on more diverse terrain, in more diverse styles, don't focus on projecting only, watch better climbers, climb outdoors. For me, with climbing shoes, there's no substitute to going to a store and trying on different models and different sizes. boston rock gym: old school grunge feel. At least up to 5. I’ve gone through dozens of shoes doing everything from alpine routes to V11 boulders, and would be fine with a pair of moderately broken-in Katana Velcros Oct 22, 2024 · Smearing is a climbing technique that involves using the rubber sole of climbing shoes to create friction against a rock surface when there are minimal or no footholds available. Recently this video of a technique coaching session was received positively here, and now there’s a follow-up video. So I can replace the tarantulas. Smearing utilizes friction and doesn’t depend on having an edge to weight. I have really comfy La Sportiva Finales that are generally only used as my multi pitch shoes when I’m on the rock all day… These are the second pair of shoes I ever bought. “I used a headjam/ face-smear combo to rest on Maxilash, a Vedauwoo 5. These are the top 5 beginner rock climbing techniques that I used and still use to improve my own rock climbing. If you’re a trad climber, knowing this technique will definitely come in handy– many trad routes involve sections of slab climbing or necessitate technical Feb 9, 2023 · Smearing is a climbing move that involves pressing the sole of the climbing shoe against the rock surface and then sliding the foot in a controlled manner to maintain friction and balance. Place pointed toe precisely in the opening; Press down with forefoot; Raise heel slightly to engage calf; Flat Wall Smearing against a flat wall. In watching these two videos I’m surprised by coach Be’s emphasis on inside flags (where your flagging leg goes IN BETWEEN your body and the wall). Closure system HOWEVER, ballistic stretching can cause micro-tears and so it is not good to develop micro-tears before climbing, so this is why my conclusion is light dynamic stretching before climbing only and static/ballistic on off days / after climbing but it is probably best to do it all gently and go overboard with the frequency / reps. 10 without taking off my sneakers. This flag/smear combo your ass really is moving towards the wall. Your route reading and technique isn't the best but in reality there's no such thing as a V2 climber with amazing technique, because if your technique was that good you wouldn't just be climbing that grade. Also I when I need to I find myself heel hooking way more than toe hooking on climbs where smearing doesn’t work. I had a hip/back injury a couple months back and have slowly been getting back to the gym. All I can add to what everyone else has already said is to think of the direction of the the force you are putting through your feet and into the rock. They obviously have some of the best technique of any climber. Currently I have a pair of basic MadRock drifters, they are fine but the have stretched and now the fit is odd (scrunched toes but the heel slips) and i cant smear very well (this is probs due to poor technique, but the rubber does feel less sticky than when the shoes were new). Sep 17, 2020 · Flagging is a technique used by climbers to create balance so you can make moves with the minimum energy required. As your are fairly new you might not have a preferred type of climbing yet. Mad Rock is relying on the lower cost and social media/podcast PR a lot and I feel if you're going to do a 2. To me I think most people refer to this combo as just flagging. 12; can't comment about harder grades, but I imagine it's the same. Well, slab climbing involves ascending virtually blank rock faces that have a less than vertical incline (watch the Nalle Hukkataival video above). Apr 27, 2016 · If you’re underclinging with your left hand, press with your right foot, smearing or edging or whatever you need to do to get the best purchase. Flagging is a footwork technique in which you use one foot as a counter balance to help you maintain your position and be able to perform the next move. Pocket A pocket foothold. Crash pad shopping is killing me. The UP Mocc is a great chill shoe and I've been in love with the rubber for 13 years. problems stay up too long and do not get reset. Climb an easy route in approach shoes. 0 was the best of the 3 shoes, CS 2nd, and the 2. However, at a place like Smith Rock where edging and pocket toe-ins are standard fare, standing up on that piece of plastic can make a piss-poor dime edge feel like a stair step. Mad Rock R3 looks great, but is sold out everywhere (or has a lot of shipping tacked onto it). And yes we are scared of falling. e. I’m wondering more about how shape of the shoe affects your climbing technique- what toe shape is better for smearing vs edging vs toe hook. Apr 16, 2025 · What to look for in sport climbing shoes; Ten things you need to know about climbing shoes; Our favorites; Honorable mentions; Most gear roundups cover new releases. Honestly I think climbing in rentals is good practice for technique. Jan 16, 2024 · Smearing comes in handy in a variety of climbing situations when the rock face does not offer many distinct holds to grip. Here's a list I put together for myself: Shoulder roll This plastic bit in my experience can make your practicing technique suffer quite a bit, because you lose sensitivity for poor footholds and smearing. Whether you’re a beginner or an experienced climber, there are always new techniques to learn and ways to improve your performance. Every technical move Jan 18, 2024 · Flagging is one of these rock climbing techniques that can help you ascend more challenging routes and boulder problems efficiently. Climbers also use head scums/jams in offwidths. I’ve been climbing for about 7 years and I have 3 pairs of shoes. Smear like on a slab; Drop heel as far as possible to maximize contact; Bend toes upward to engage forefoot; Small Edge A Feb 11, 2021 · As described above, technique is best defined as efficiency. I cannot pass the lead test at my local gym because the route they test on feels more like 5. I currently use the scarpa vapor v’s which I’m happy with bc the have a relatively hard sole and wide toe-box but I’m wondering if there might be something better out there. The optimal scenario is having the left undercling at about waist level and back-stepping with the outside edge of your right foot, which should provide more reach. Smearing is the climbing technique you need to have in your repertoire to face those situations. Shout out to properly sized Sportiva Skawamas. Unpopular opinion, if you are still learning techniques and climbing lower grades, get a cheaper pair (La sportiva Finale, or something) to climb on V2s and practice V5s and wear your solution comp when you are ready to send it. (b) The best way to improve your technique is to watch and climb with people who have very good technique. If you try to change your ankle angle in order to get more upward motion (which seems totally natural) you will lose all of your hard-earned surface area, and at a moment when you are putting more force on that foothold, increasing the potential for blowing off of it. This plastic bit in my experience can make your practicing technique suffer quite a bit, because you lose sensitivity for poor footholds and smearing. Went outdoors for the first time and loved it (after only gym climbing), figured if I got a crash pad I could go even if no one else seemed interested. But as another comment mentioned, maybe you're taking smearing to mean making use of a shitty foothold? Context - I've been climbing for 5 years, at anything between V5 to V7 (indoor) depending on style. 0 was a huge miss. By incorporating these Nowadays, gym culture has taken over and some people seem to have narrowed it down to different types of gym climbing, or indoor/outdoor sport climbing and bouldering. What this entails is that the hand you are reaching with should be on the opposite side of the leg you are currently flagging. Smearing happens when you don't have an actual foothold, so you rely on your shoe's rubber for friction against the rock. Even the word smear almost describes using sole of the foot and getting a large surface area. perpendicular) to the surface of the rock (taking into account the features of the rock you are smearing in) the more likely it is to stick. Very aggressive shoes are good for small feet and over hand, where soft shoes are great for smearing and such. This is far more useful than quietly stepping on holds bigger than the size of texas when it comes to training for time on rock IMO. I'm addicted to watching climbing videos on YouTube of all the v16+ climbers dominating rock. Jul 3, 2021 · How to get the best purchase on common gym holds. Always feel good even when pasting on glassy quartzite and limestone. Previously the editor of Climbing magazine, Julie thrives on creating high-quality, inspirational stories and photos for climbers of all disciplines. Some situations where smearing shines: I started climbing outside within the first few months and luckily went to Hueco for one of my first experiences on real rock. Unlike most climbing techniques, when smearing you'll want to lean away from the wall; A softer shoe allows the flexibility to get as much rubber in contact with the rock as possible; Most climbing techniques involve the hips being as close to the wall as possible but this isn’t the case when it comes to smearing. Curious of what technique this is and if someone can explain mechanically how it works. But problems overlapping volumes allow the use of volumes to complete routes. Solution comp is the best all rounded bouldering shoes in my mind, while the theory is excellent for slab smearing. I climb much harder on overhung routes vs slab, and part of that discrepancy is down to my technique I believe - specifically footwork. Choose one technique to focus on during each warmup. Unparalleled Mocc for most general climbing and Sportiva Testarossa for hard climbing. When I first started shopping around for a climbing shoe I was very intrigued by La Sportiva specifically, and after looking at gear labs’ “best climbing shoes” tier list I was considering the LS Katana and Solutions. Apr 24, 2024 · Julie Ellison started climbing in Alabama more than a decade ago and is now living out her dream of van life with her pup, a 60-lb. Situations Calling for Smearing. 12 in the gym in climbing shoes, I'd expect to be able to forerun up to 5. With climbing shoes there's no way I'll be able to buy online or just from recommendation. Aug 17, 2022 · Much depends on the roof’s angle and the footholds, but the head scum often works best for extreme compression. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. 10b then a 5. This does not necessarily mean that static beta is the best, and it does not mean that the best technique for any given climber is the same as another. When you smear, look for small depressions or protrusions that will give a little extra friction. So I've been climbing for a couple years now, and have been leading for lat last few months. The universally generaliziable things that I think slab climbing teaches are the limits of your shoe rubber and headgame. Absolutely feel more in love with climbing then but now, 8 years later, I still wish I would have dedicated way more time to outside climbing. crazy busy on weeknights. The last year I have been using La Sportiva Skwarma and I only have good thing to say about them. That makes approach shoes great for practicing smearing. com Aug 4, 2023 · It’s more common to smear when climbing outdoors, but some indoor climbs require the climber to utilize this technique on volumes or rounded footholds. This 100%! Technique and body position. BKB: yuppie, dislike the smooth walls. The good foot precision and tension practice will pay off in your climbing as you get better too. Then later on that year I saw one of the best climbers in my gym wearing rentals because he forgot his and was still crushing all the hardest climbs regardless of the rentals. I don’t think any push against the wall with your foot is a smear but if you wanted to generalize smearing that much sure. Most “shoe advice” focuses on aggressive vs non aggressive and fit. Anyway, I was wondering if "smearing" counted as a natural hold in gyms. Rock Climbing Technique: The Practical Guide to Movement Mastery by John Kettle - A book of exercises to improve climbing movement. When placing a smear or smearing, you rely solely on the friction created between the sticky rubber of your climbing shoes and the rock. 1. Through regular training drills, technical moves can become muscle memory enabling climbers to gradually progress not only on the subjective grading scale but also as efficient climbers. Then take a week with reduced load, then for the next 3 weeks focus on endurance and technique drills from “Rock Climbing Technique: The Practical Guide to Movement Mastery” and 4x4s twice a Seek the type of climbing that can't be brute-forced, even at the grade where you're comfortable. Edging Would be best to check in with the employees, my gym is tapeless, walls are free game, smearing. Shit technique for strength The idea of climbing with poor technique that Louis Parkinson advised in that video has some horrible bits. 12 votes, 21 comments. New shoes aren't comfortable like rented shoes which were broken in by 100+ of feet. Then I found the theories. It’s mostly for slab climbing that involves standing up on tiny pebbles as well as generating as much friction from getting as much rubber on the rock as possible. 5 Biomechanical Tips to Improve Your Climbing Technique by u/stoneyviolist - A sports medicine take on climbing form. Dec 29, 2023 · What is smearing in rock climbing? Smearing is a rock climbing technique where you place the sole of your climbing shoe flat against the rock wall. If you can send a problem one way, try making it "easier" by changing foot placements, body positioning etc. Depends a bit on you climbing. How and when to flag It's a nice benchmark shoe, covering a lot of different things: I can toehook just fine with it, heelhook is also kinda fine, compared to the regular Tarantula it supports the big toe a bit better, so standing on the small holds was also not really a problem and it's weakest part is probably with smearing, it's a little bit stiff - but still Feb 15, 2023 · how to perform the Outside Flag. The ideal time to employ smearing is when climbing slabby or moderately angled rock that lacks defined holds. Depending on your body position, almost any hold, even a seemingly blank place on an overhanging wall, can be smeared. This type of flag only has one rule: opposite hand and foot. The home of Climbing on reddit. 16 votes, 57 comments. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Either way, I agree. Reply reply Climbing is an exhilarating and physically demanding sport that requires strength, flexibility, and technique. Anyone have any outdoor specific tips? For… To keep it simple, you could do three weeks of focusing on hard moves for two of your sessions, along with strength training for one of your sessions. This guide goes over the fundamental techniques for beginners and explores more advanced techniques for experienced climbers. Knowing technique is not enough, technique must be trained. . I remember when I first started I was bitching about rentals and eventually got my own pair. Testarossas are incredible all around except for toe hooks. 22 votes, 11 comments. i climb in the boston area and here is my quick and dirty review of the popular gyms. large gym though. 0 it should improve the older shoe, but most people I know that have used both (and even like them) agree that the 1. 10 ish slab on various rock type maybe a gr Of course there are exceptions like stemming an overhung dihedral where it's def a legitimate technique, but smearing on a steep face might as well be campusing. 9 like its labelled. We will look at what smearing is and why it’s so important. The reason that the best technique for a climber cannot be the same between climbers is simple, different strengths and weaknesses. oldest gym in the area but i think the route setting is good and . On relatively vertical wall, if the handhold is a poor crimp but if I can edge my foot onto a small foothold, I can bring my… Dec 29, 2023 · The best way to get better at smearing climbing techniques, like classic smearing, smedging, and shmornering, is to go out and smear everything. Smearing on a hold in the gym. See full list on thewanderingclimber. 3. Specifically, on heel down I understand this and I know how to climb up to maybe low 5. grading is softish. Accompanied by Youtube videos to support the exercises. When a company designs a new suite of shoes, they send pairs to us and our testers, and we climb in them, compare notes, write a review, and then, later, do a roundup of the latest and greatest releases of the year. grigri use central rock: tall and overhung lead wall. Smearing is useful in slab climbing, when you're on low-angle rock without many defined footholds. So where I climbed 5. Re-injury is a big thing on my mind, so I focus on how to support my weight and move up the wall with as little strength as possible. We will explain how to smear and what shoes work best for this technique. Also, the technique related stuff you mention is just buzzwords, climbing technique is way more complex than that. Unlike traditional climbing methods that rely on distinct edges or holds for foot placements, smearing requires climbers to trust the friction between their shoes and Feb 14, 2022 · Smearing This is the next technique to master; it’s harder than edging because you can’t necessarily “see” a smear. The closer that force is to bring normal (I. I study how they move (each move is different and requires different microbeta), so theres an unlimited number of moves you can study. There's no getting around it--after a certain point, it will become useful for you to learn about discrete techniques. The videos others have posted are great, and watching + climbing with others is always solid. Slab climbing has some application to vert walls in terms of technique, using terrible hands and feet to great effect, smearing, etcless so to overhanging walls. Most approach shoes are not wonderful at edging but they still have sticky rubber on the outsole. I plan to stop smearing and try other techniques when smearing fails me… but for now I’m just looking for a good shoe that doesn’t slip on tiny holds My gym has a 1 month return policy on shoes. By using your gravity-advantage, balance, and smearing technique, you will be amazed at what is possible! Smearing is when you apply pressure into an essentially blank face with the bottom of your toes. My climbing shoe is the la sportiva solutions, downsized a fair amount - but I don't think this stop Hi all, any good drills to practice keeping my feet on the wall? Particular small footholds when making bigger moves, my feet tend to cut and it wastes a ton of energy trying to get feet back on. Hi climbharder, I find footwork the hardest aspect of lead climbing outdoors. There will always be situations where you don't have much option to flag using contact with your toes but you should try 'jumping' your foot instead of dragging it (keep it engaged and smear instead of dragging, etc). vlhyy syb ljrjgc phntwj sbmml xshy yqfu tbvaut zvfe oagqx