Climbing quad anchor Rob Coppolillo and Marc Chauvin. A Quad, basically, is a pre-built system of some cord and a few biners that will help you address many of the points mentioned above in a timely manner. ” These are just a few ways to build three-piece anchors, … read more » Step By Step Guide To Set Up Top Rope Anchors With The Quad. We know that the core principles in all anchor constructions have been consistently applied in climbing applications. This maintains a lower force on each piece, therefore decreasing the likelihood of anchor point failure. Oct 29, 2023 · ok, i know this topic has been done to death but i just need simple answers. Whether you’re top-rope climbing or lead climbing, knowing how to build a solid anchor is absolutely critical to staying safe outdoors. Learn how to make Quad If you're gonna be climbing the route for a while on TR then use a quad. The Editors. lap dog named Lizzie. The Quad allows you to equalize two or more pieces, creates two independent huge master points, is incredibly strong and is self-equalizing! There's really not much we don't love about it. - Since the quad needs to be doubled up, it is difficult to equalize anchors where the placements are far apart. Updated Jul 23, 2024 Outside+. I think I like quad anch Jan 13, 2022 · 1) To construct a girth-hitch masterpoint, clip or thread cord or a sling through each anchor component and pull down on the rigging material to tension it, as you would when rigging a cordelette anchor. Nov 18, 2016 · From placing/removing gear and proper belay techniques, to how to make an anchor and manage a stuck rope, Intro to Trad Climbing takes the guesswork out of exploring traditionally protected climbs. This anchor is not redundant. A few things to keep in mind: We're starting with a common scenario: a sport-climbing area with chains and rappel rings hanging from two bolts at the top of the route. Sport climbing crags obviously come in many different shapes and sizes. Previously the editor of Climbing magazine, Julie thrives on creating high-quality, inspirational stories and photos for climbers of all disciplines. “I wouldn’t say always, but it’s one of my favorite tools. Dec 30, 2015 · Tying a couple of 120 cm 18mm nylon runners into a quad would seem to be about the strongest way to have a perfectly equalized, minimally extending toprope anchor without having to do anything other than clip it in on arrival. . We built a full quad anchor out of 6mm accessory cord that is only 6kn strong and we're getting 32kn. But if you aren't swinging leads or if something goes wrong, having to reconstruct the anchor before proceeding can be a hassle. The Quad is an anchor system which self-adjusts to keep an equal force on each anchor point. The Quad Anchor is a relatively new anchor and is fast becoming adopted by climbers everywhere. Efficient—This is perhaps the biggest failure of this anchor. 2 large lockers for cloving in and belaying. We dive into the key principles of anchoring for rock climbing, and debunk some of the myths and focuses that some climbers cling to without understand the true reality of climbing anchors. (See a detailed article about the quad here. Those values are: Strength, Redundancy, Load Distribution, Simplicity, and Limited Extension. Learn all about it here. The legs of a sling clipped to anchor points above, with the masterpoint locking carabiner. Dec 1, 2023 · With a well-built anchor and competent belayer, you can go climbing and take falls with confidence. The difference in set up time between a quad and 2quickdraws is negligible, and the quad is a better TR anchor. For gear anchors, the quad will be tricky as you usually have 3 pieces in your anchor (meaning you have to tie two pieces of protection together to end up with two clip-in points for your quad). Best Situation To Use The Quad Anchor To equalize two bomber anchor points such as a two-bolt anchor. While it is the least secure, it likely won’t allow the rope to come out especially if you do not climb above the anchor when cleaning but still does not have the added Aug 16, 2021 · This anchor design can also be adapted to use premade quad anchor slings. Aug 4, 2021 · The quad anchor is an increasingly popular choice for many climbers. It provides easy clipping at the top and I usually choose this for when all climbers will be leading the climb. To make a quad anchor: Take your cordellete and double it up so you have four equal-length strands. We'll also cover cleaning (removing) the quad anchor after everyone is done climbing. In this video we talk about the less common, but still very useful Quad anchor setup. Quad Anchor. Multipitch bolted anchors: Usually a quad with non lockers on the bolts. (Yes, a 180 cm sling is a little hard to find. 4 things to consider: Is your anchor - Strong, Solid, Secure and Redundant. Jul 6, 2014 · Knowing how to use the rope as an anchor is a key tool, especially if you're a numb nut like me and forget stuff in the car. From Bad to Good Common Anchor Mistakes Corrected Illustration: Supercorn. There are lots of different ways to set up a top-rope anchor, including a sliding X, an equalized cordelette or two quickdraws with gates opposite and oppose A quad totally shines in this application, the multi pitch with bolted anchors. However, those slings are unusual sizes, and can be hard to find. This simple setup meets SERENE, can change directionality, arms can be used to personally anchor i Sep 6, 2024 · In 2017 I started calling a material efficient version of the Quad anchor a “Mini-Quad”. It also can be pre-tied making it an efficient tool. What’s cool about the quad? Good load distribution. Also, try Mar 18, 2020 · Method 4 - Quad anchor from 180 cm sling . Jun 30, 2023 · Climbing anchors, whether in trad or sport scenarios, are life or death. Oct 10, 2023 · The Quad Anchor. Clip 1 locking carabiner onto each of the 2 anchor points. For a gear anchor with anything less then ideal placements I'd want a third piece in at a minimum. Your quad anchor could be a large length of cord (usually 7mm) tied in a big loop cordelette style, or the new school “mini quad” typically made with a 180 cm runner, as we cover in this tip here . This gives you two clipping points at two different levels, which can be helpful in certain situations. Learn how to use the self-equalizing 'quad anchor' for climbing See full list on climbing. Updated Mar 3, 2025 A climbing anchor is a system made up of individual anchor points that are linked together to create a master point that the rope and/or climbers clip into to be securely attached to the rock. I have been using the "sliding X" and "equalette" anchor systems but am looking to invest in a cordelette to build a quad anchor with for extended periods of top roping. Dec 1, 2020 · The quad anchor can be a great tool when you are climbing on bolted anchors where the bolts are generally good and you might need some movement in the direction the anchor could get pulled. Welcome to the SIET Blog! Climbing Anchors: Evidence-Based Practices, Myths, and Assessment Tools This blog post is intended to supplement our Three-Piece Anchors video, in which we demonstrate three different three-piece anchor configurations: what we call the “W,” the “V-Clove,” and the “Quad. Having separate rope and anchor systems can also go a long way to declutter belays. May 31, 2021 · The Quad Anchor. See "Climbing Anchors" by John Long and Bob Gaines for details and alternatives The main advantage of using a self-equalizing anchor is that it continues to distribute the load equally between the anchor pieces as the loading direction changes. The quad anchor, first mentioned (I think) around 2006 by John Long in his book “Climbing Anchors”, was an attempt to have the Holy Grail in anchors. Here's a variation, the offset quad. The Quad Anchor is my personal favorite rock climbing anchor! It is self-equalizing, easy to tie, can be tied ahead-of-time, and is very strong. There’s no attempt at equalization/load distribution. Mike shows how to build a quad anchor with 7mm cordelette. The quad is currently the best technique for building self-distributing anchors. Note that the quad will extend slightly should either side Dec 17, 2019 · I am still quite new in the climbing world and have been trying to figure out the best way to set up a top rope anchor. i’m relatively new to outdoor climbing & am wanting to build a quad anchor of my own pretty much just to set up top rope with, and a quad anchor because it’s what i’ve used so far climbing with others so i just understand how to make it the most. You don't even need space on your harness for them--I clip them around the shoulder, biner to biner. While there's nothing inherently wrong with this, it is big and bulky. Gym Climbing; Magazine; More . This video shows how to build a quad anchor and all the different details of when to use it and how it can be modified. Mar 3, 2025 · Use a long cordelette or sling to create a fast, safe, and self-equalizing quad anchor. Modern sewn slings are a better choice. Nov 2, 2017 · Originally introduced in the 2006 version of John Long's Climbing Anchors book the "Quad" took a few years to start being adapted by both guides and recreational climbers alike. The quad anchor is a great option at the top of a sport climb where you have two side-by-side bolts. Angela Hawse, Co-Owner Chicks Climbing and Skiing, demonstrates why a quad anchor is so quick and easy, self-equalizing and redundant. Learn how to build a quad anchor, along with some of its primary uses. I have been climbing for some time and am looking to add some more equipment to my slowly growing arsenal but haven't been able to find what I'm looking for online. org : Climbing, hiking, mountaineering. The quad is an awesome load distributive anchor. Tie the accessory cord into a loop with a Double Fisherman’s Knot. I realize there are lighter, less bulky options, but aside from that I don't see any drawbacks. Course top roping: Lockers everywhere, tie with masterpoint. This was built from a 120cm, or double length, Dyneema runner with two overhand knots that became welded and were left in place for the life of the sling. Using a "quad runner" - or a 240cm sling - you can build a self-equalizing anchor that is gre Moved Permanently. Bobby shows his favorite ways to build a top rope anchor on 2 bolts. If you know that the direction of pull will change throughout the climb, strive to create a self-equalizing anchor. ) The standard way of tying it, with a doubled 180 cm or 240 cm sling, works great, provided you have that gear with you. Redundancy, yes. Minimal extension. This is especially useful when equalizing marginal pieces of lead protection. The document has moved here. You can make a quad anchor out of a 180 cm sling and keep the knots in it permanently tied. Now, ten years later, it has really started to gain widespread popularity for the simplified way it can create ERNEST* anchors, especially when building anchors on two… A self-distributing anchor like a quad will extend if all the components on an arm fails. Therefor, if any of the strands in the anchor rope are cut, the entire anchor will fail. ” You can learn more about how to build a quad anchor here and here. The second component of the anchor is used only for redundancy, as a backup in the extremely unlikely event that the first bolt were to fail. Dec 18, 2014 · Julie Ellison started climbing in Alabama more than a decade ago and is now living out her dream of van life with her pup, a 60-lb. Jul 11, 2016 · The quad is great for bolted belays as it is fast, allows for some movement of the master point, and gives you more room in the master point. Quad anchors are mainly used for sp In this article, we explain how to set up one type of versatile top-rope anchor: the quad. I only set quickdraws on the anchor if I'm going to lower and someone else is going to lead. Quad anchor : SummitPost. Quick to set up and break down, no knots to untie. Double up the loop so that you get 4 strands of rope. The American Alpine Institute offers rock climbing programs for people of all skill levels in Washington, Cal Sep 30, 2019 · Use a quad anchor, and put two opposite and opposed carabiners on each pair of the quad strands. (Photo: Derek DeBruin) - The quad will extend slightly should either anchor point fail. Thankfully, the self-equalizing anchor does have a beefed-up sibling in the “Quad” anchor that solves or helps all of these problems. Just use your quad wherever you would otherwise be building a sliding x. This article explains how it can be used to rig two and three-piece anchors. This setup is only for 2 anchor points. -- Dec 7, 2023 · To make a quad, you have several options of materials and length. Jun 9, 2024 · There’s a whole other genre of anchors, known as a “series” anchor, where all of the primary load goes to ONE anchor component. Common practice will often change with the climbing region and the type of anchor building options you encounter at one crag in one area may be very different from another. This can shock load an anchor dangerously, which is why it is important to limit the potential for extension as much as possible. Jun 28, 2016 · The masterpoint is the connection point of an anchor where all the values of the anchor are optimized and consolidated. If the draws lay poorly against the rock, I'll attach the quad instead. Call us today for more information on Climbing School by Stone Adventures. The original material, suggested by John Long in his book “Climbing Anchors”, was a cordelette. Jun 2, 2021 · This quick tip goes over how to build a "quad" climbing anchor. Sep 1, 2008 · I read about these but I believe they are mainly recommended for routes with bolted, horizontal side by side anchors since it is pre-configured for two anchor points. Left: No protection against an upward pull. Very rarely have I made it work on a 3-piece trad anchor - by clipping one end of the quad into 2 pieces that are equalized on a sliding-x and the other end into my 3rd piece. Simple to rig and extremely strong, this configuration is best used wit May 31, 2021 · The Quad Anchor. This is a self-equalization anchor. Chart of results is at the end of the video👉 Learn Mar 15, 2022 · The quadalette aka the "quad" offers a strong, fast, redundant, simple anchor when distributing forces between pieces is a high priority. A quad anchor is tied in the exact same way as a self-equalizing, but with a doubled over sling or loop of cordelette. It is also We built a full anchor and broke it, over and over again on our Bolt Buster concrete slab and then again on our slack snap machine. Try a Google search for “Mammut Contact” or “Petzl Pur’Anneau”. Nov 24, 2020 · The quick draw anchor is the least secure of all the anchors. In this episode, Mike goes over how to use a quad anchor, setting up a top down belay, top roping with a quad, and the nuances of clipping into the anchor. Oct 15, 2021 · The quad anchor is a rock climbing system that evenly distributes weight between multiple anchors, allowing climbers to easily move from pitch to pitch. Aug 28, 2021 · With a cordelette, quad anchors are solid, easy to construct, quick to set up, and easy to break down. Super strong (would you believe 40 kN?!) Watch our free video tutorial on the Quad Anchor, along with other instructional videos on anchor building, knot tying, and other rock climbing skills. and easy self-equalizing quad anchor. Whether you are the leader doing the anchor building, the follower cleaning the route, or enjoying a top rope lap– you trust your life to them every time you go climbing. I've read and heard great things about webbing and the same for quad anchors but I can't find anything for making a quad with webbing. You can read more about the construction and potential uses of… Jul 14, 2023 · Redundant—If I’m seeing this correctly, this anchor was built with a tied loop of rope folded in half many times. Fully redundant. This can shock-load the remaining piece(s). Oct 1, 2023 · The quad anchor is a self-equalizing anchor system that offers redundancy and flexibility for a variety of climbing scenarios. I don't find many multis with bolted anchors where I normally climb, but when I do, they are super quick. It consists of four anchor points, four locking carabiners, and two slings, which automatically adjust the load distribution as the direction of pull changes. “As long as they’re modern bolts, a quad is probably the best bet,” says Whewell. Feb 16, 2019 · I use 'mini-quads' to go off of 2-bolt anchors when I'm sport climbing or for the rare bolted trad anchor on slabby multi-pitch routes. In a three-piece quad, only the component on an arm by itself (A) can cause an extension if it fails. com Jun 7, 2024 · The quad anchor rig offers fast set up, great strength, good load distribution and complete redundancy, all in a light, compact package. Before building, placing, and cleaning a climbing anchor one should: Be able to tie a figure eight knot ; Know how to safely belay; Know proper safety checks, commands, and acknowledgements; Be able to confidently lead climb; Understand how basic climbing gear fits/works: Harness; Belay device (ATC or Grigri) Carabiners (locking and non-locking) Jan 18, 2024 · A typical sport climbing anchor at an indoor gym. First, if building this anchor on three points, identify your best anchor piece. Watch our free video tutorial on the 3 Piece Quad anchor, along with other instructional videos on anchor building, knot tying, and other rock climbing skills. Learn More. Apr 7, 2021 · The quad anchor, typically tied with a 180 cm Dyneema sling, is an increasingly popular choice for bolted anchors or ice climbing. Whether it's knots, direction of load Oct 13, 2021 · Me and a buddy single pitch sport climbing: 2 quickdraws on the anchor. csd rxomy secteb fveqh vfrenmjz abg vdyhq qatsefr evaiqfv wtvpuck