Crack climbing footwork reddit.
No incidental contact with the wall (e.
Crack climbing footwork reddit. a finger crack with good facial features can be ~5.
Crack climbing footwork reddit We would all love to think we’re the Adam Ondras of our gym where the type and condition of our climbing shoes matter, but the truth is for the most part these aren’t going to make a difference to our climbing (just our comfort level, maybe) until we’re all of a certain standard. If there's incidental contact, get off the route. If you want to crack climb, you are going to want to get a shoe that is specific to that purpose in order to be able to climb to your full potential. I was able TR/follow a 5. Make two movements with your feet then 2 movements with your hands. Once when I was a beginner I wore uncomfortable shoes and my climbing went to crap because I was more concerned about how much it hurt. Hey everyone, I tried finding some older posts with suggestions but had no luck. Also having a climbing partner critic me on every climb. And yes we are scared of falling. This should make you stronger in more positions and ranges of motion. Would you agree, and why? Also, what… Work on your footwork: Don't climb routes like you climb a ladder. my primary gym shoe solutions- on the For most people starting out, gains in any facet of climbing (finger strength, technique, etc. 7, master it, and so on. Do the shoes help you climb better grades or were you already strong enough to climb those grades and your footwork was holding you back. Which is where that 2nd video can maybe help fill some gaps. 6 crack, master it, move to 5. Consider climbing using your body, how to apply it and ensure you climb all kinds of different positions and moves when practicing. 10a/b with almost no success. No incidental contact with the wall (e. Hi All, I've been climbing for about 2 months, and I really want to get into crack climbing. See full list on theadventurejunkies. Unfortunately the only cracks at my gym are slightly inclined, and about halfway between hand and fist cracks which makes me think they are intended for people with Totally get your problem! The above advice is absolutely correct too. Made from the same sticky rubber as climbing shoes, they are designed to protect your hands from the harsh demands of crack climbing on coarse rock. Cracks are the I know TC Pro is basically for trad/crack climbing but considering the fact that this one edges so good while being so comfy according to tons of reviews, I though that this pair would be a good fit. Crack climbing is one of the most rewarding yet demanding styles of climbing, requiring a completely different approach than face climbing. Once again, the moccasym is a good choice, or the supermoc, a variant of it with a slightly different toe box for crack climbing. r/climbergirls A chip A close button A chip A close button Hi there Extension-Border1552. I see strong people sloppily muscle their way up a V4, but also weak people glide up the same problem with good footwork and hip placement. A soft shoe will teach you to actively engage your foot muscles, and really grab with your toes, where a stiff shoe will teach you more to press & pray. Instead of pulling on holds, you rely on crack climbing technique—jamming your hands, fingers, fists, or even entire body into fissures in the rock to create solid placements. If you plan on doing a ton of bouldering, especially steep routes, then you might want to go for a performance bouldering shoe such as the dragons or team 5. Help correct technique with footwork and climbing overall. Move efficiently through the moves by swinging your arms in a windmill fashion into Remember your footwork a finger crack with good facial features can be ~5. Feb 9, 2020 · Footwork is essential to all climbing, and crack climbing is no different. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. foot drags down the wall in the process of standing on a hold). Yes, absolutely. 167K subscribers in the climbharder community. What is your weight to strength ratio? it's been my first time crack climbing today ( overhang crack, see pictures). You can broadly divide free climbing into two categories, face and crack climbing, although you will often use combinations of both. 10 range you will really need to learn the finer points in body placement and footwork to continue to progress. The home of Climbing on reddit. Traditional climbing: use at your own risk. It shows many techniques that turn hard challenges into wins. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to… Feb 14, 2022 · Learning to free climb is as natural as climbing a tree, but doing it well is a long process. However, it was longer before I really felt like my footwork was good-ish. In the end this is just two approaches, using different shoes to support different styles of footwork. 1. Because we have a lot of deleted posts on this subreddit, here is a backup of the body of this post: Hey people! Any recommendations on footwork training Im climbing currently around 5c 6a so gimme some exercises that helped you! If you’re a new climber, just climb in them until they’re bust. My two cents is that the moccs are not designed as an edging shoe. Crack climbing is a mix of creativity and skill. The nice thing about climbing shoes is you’ll need a different size / aggressiveness right around when you wear through your first pair of shoes. I love my Miuras like they are my own child. Steep stemming problems and crack climbs are among my favorites. A great shoe from La Sportiva to work on footwork with is the Cobra; it's very soft, relatively cheap, and makes an excellent gym shoe for bouldering or crack climbing. Climbers with great footwork - and I don't mean good - always stand out to me. 9-10 level in the valley is footwork. But put on some tight Miuras and there are footholds everywhere. it's dangerous. Handsized cracks usually fit feet well. right foot, right hand, left foot, left hand). I built a 3' x 8' rectangle out of 2x8's, then framed in about 6 different crack sizes from finger locks up to double fist jams. 16 votes, 16 comments. Smearing and edging on the faces adjacent to the crack is the typical workaround, but when the joint offers pods and flares, you should exploit them for Mar 24, 2017 · They are using floppy crack shoes, so they can't stand on the tiny features. Climbing in the gym can wear out your shoes faster than climbing outdoors so a lot of people ware a cheaper shoe for inside the gym. I just got into climbing a month ago and bought new climbing shoes expecting to see good results (I used to borrow shoes from my boulder hall and they were quite nice, but they took 4 bucks to borrow them every time). Climbing lower-angled cracks is a good way to develop your footwork. Straight-on face climbing I do poorly at (more technique than build issue) but steep crimpy or highly weight dependent things I begin to do poorly on. Insert the toe of your climbing For really thin cracks, you may have to just barely get a rand smear in the crack, or even just edge on the opposite side of the crack. Scout for them at all times, as they are the easiest to use. 10 shoe. ” Hard: Toe Jams Being in good overall shape will definitely help, but learning the proper technique helps a lot too. 10 (like the top of this climb) or less, but an overhung finger crack with poor feet can be 5. For me this was around the 3 month mark climbing (outside) 2-3 days a week for 2-3 hours, which is in the ballpark of 90 hours. To improve your footwork you can stop focusing on your footwork and people judging you for your footwork. Cracks are the Hi All, I've been climbing for about 2 months, and I really want to get into crack climbing. Well when placing feet it’s important to take into account the static vs the dynamic coefficient of friction. However, it took a while for me to feel comfortable at the grade. Reddit's rock climbing training community. 9 crack outdoors but I've never done anything off-width. Posted by u/YungTayto - 10 votes and 22 comments Aug 5, 2022 · narrow crack footwork Small cracks (perfect fingers or smaller) are too thin for foot or toe jams, so you’ll have to cobble together a combination of face climbing and friction-jamming moves. The goal here is to reinforce deliberate footwork. 5'7 185 lb muscular dude. Unfortunately, there's little crack climbing near me and I only have indoor cracks that are not off-width. Just dance up the nice little crystals. This might not always work, but it will make your climbing more efficient because you'll eventually rely less on your arms and use legs. Straight cracks: Combine hand and foot jams in an alternating sequence (e. These are all great, but climbing tends to be less about raw power and more about power through a range of motion. I'm planning to climb the Durrance route of Devils' Tower but I'm still fairly new to crack climbing. like hard trad climbing, loathe powerful sport climbing. In terms of ease of learning jams, fist jams were easiest for me at first, followed by hand jams. Unfortunately the only cracks at my gym are slightly inclined, and about halfway between hand and fist cracks which makes me think they are intended for people with Like any form of climbing: work on your foot technique. To jam a foot, begin in the “crack-climbing Lotus position” by raising your foot to shin level and dropping your knee to the outside; the sole of your shoe should be parallel to the crack. Rubber gloves are useful if you plan to do a lot of crack climbing. 99% of the people in gyms need to work on footwork, resting, pacing, using momentum, shifting body weight, weight management. You don't have to rely solely on the crack. Your form is going to matter so much more than your shoes. It’s like sport climbing, so remember your fancy footwork: step-throughs, back-stepping, etc. No matter how hard you climb you can always do something better when pushing your limits. TC pros- for long routes, crack climbing, and routes that need edging Futuras- My go to hard sport/bouldring shoe 5. Straight-in cracks are more straight forward, but can get awkward if there are pods or closed-off areas. Open menu Open navigation Go to Reddit Home. I didn't really start sport climbing until I was bouldering for a while--my first 12 was a 12b/c that I flashed. Many of the cracks are in corners than can make footwork awkward or painful if you haven't acclimated to it yet. Small things like feeling how to spread your fingers, layering your palms and fists correctly during jams, the right angle and amount of torque so your shoes take as much of the brunt as possible during laybacks. g. You really can't explain how to climb a crack in text, the wild country video does a good job, but really you need to go out and find a 5. Climbed my first v9 abou ta year after that. The Wide Boyz have a good YouTube series on crack climbing technique that helped me learn a lot! A huge difference for a lot of people climbing at a 5. Learn to move efficiently in the vertical realm and you will be rewarded with a lifetime of challenges. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. Would you agree, and why? Also, what… it's been my first time crack climbing today ( overhang crack, see pictures). I'm an intermediate climber, around v4-6 range, looking for a soft shoe that I can size a little bigger than my projecting shoes (39. building off that prior footwork drill, pick whatever route like before. 44 votes, 10 comments. I've seen it said that using beginner shoes for too long leads to bad footwork. I'm not that good of a climber (I flail on sport routes outside and boulder around v2 in the gym) but changing from a pair of loose-fitting neutral shoes with a pretty bad hot spot to a pair of aggressive shoes (Evolv Shamans) that actually me correctly (wide toe box and 'love bump'!) has made a huge difference. Oct 16, 2012 · Good in-the-crack footwork separates the true crack climbers from the thrashers. Some climbing companies make rubber gloves for crack climbing. Ok so I've been climbing for about two years now and its about time (I think) for my second pair of shoes, I want something a little more aggressive… 167K subscribers in the climbharder community. its kind of a chicken and egg question. I've tried a couple routes at my local climbing gym, 5. Like your jams and finger locks might be pristine but if you’re not getting mileage in with learning to smear steep slabs, then all the crack training in the world isn’t going to help you even on vertical gym cracks. 19K subscribers in the tradclimbing community. No rand smears required. com Don't forget to look outside the crack for features to put your feet on. In all seriousness, like all climbing, time and technique will assist to reduce the damage of crack/off-width climbing. I then either stand it up and lean it against my climbing wall, which allows me to climb overhanging cracks, or I elevate it with a pulley system from my climbing wall, which allows me to climb roof cracks on the underside, at basically any angle I would like. So if your goal was to pick up big dumbbells, you may still be lacking in the end-range areas critical to climbing harder and harder. 5 skwamas) and use to train foot strength. 4 and 5. Either can work. Apr 13, 2022 · Look for bumps, edges, or dishes on the face outside the crack. Like any form of climbing: work on your foot technique. 13 or harder. Hand-cracks tend to offer great foot placements, but you have to twist your feet into them. I could do a few pull up from the middle crack but didn't manage to do more than a move. high walls for roped climbing good mix of top rope, lead, and bouldering slab wall for top rope (I really like slab) clinics or workshops for outdoor climbing skills (pacific edge has a mixture of free clinics and paid classes from footwork and crack climbing to self rescue and aid climbing) Things that I don't care about: Yes, absolutely. the moccs are warmup or crack shoes and the solutions are great for most climbing, while the instincts are my micro edging power shoe. Learning hand jams, fist jams, and good footwork can make climbing better. Once you get to the . Start with your knee facing out like you’re sitting cross-legged, and bring your foot roughly level to your other knee. Climbing up a Crack. Some questions about shoes. For smaller cracks, my general advice is to go pinky toe into the crack first, wide cracks- learn the heel-toeing. Hand Jams and Fist Jams: Techniques and Tips This dude is climbing a crack, which requires its own particular set of techniques where you jam your hands, fingers and toes into the crack and then squeeze or twist them to generate outwards force on the rock to hold you in place. From what I’ve seen, not trying to keep both feet in the crack can be really helpful. Posted by u/blamo11 - 10 votes and 12 comments Skip to main content. ) will yield considerable improvement. 10 team- I have bothvxi for super overhangs blacks for normal bouldering mythos - I use these neveronly if im messing around with easy stuff and long pitches muiras- on the last life. I mostly complain about the pain climbing shoes give and therefore wanted to pick a comfortable pair. Wider cracks might feel more like drop knees and toe hooks to get the tension right. . Pivoting your heel once a foot is placed creates a dynamic coefficient of friction, every object has two coefficients for its surface type and material, the dynamic and static, the dynamic is much much lower and this means there significantly less friction holding the shear force you Maybe break-in is a poor descriptor; I find that TC pros take a really long time to stop molding and becoming softer. V9 boulder, 12- crack (fingers/hands), 11- slab (granite friction), 10+ OW, 12+ sport I spent the last season really dialing in my trad climbing and am very happy with how I've progressed but want to change up my focus this year. Finger-crack master Jean-Pierre Ouellet says, “The tiniest bumps will be good enough to get to the next jam. Hence no footholds. Let’s explore these key techniques for crack climbing. I have two questions : When hand jamming, I feel sometimes I can't put my thumb any further, yet my hand is not holding my body completely. Shoes won't screw up your footwork unless you can't stand being in them because of pain. I have a pair of Miuras and Miuras VS. For most people starting out, gains in any facet of climbing (finger strength, technique, etc. FOOTWORK is key. I have a pair of moccs, solutions, and instinct vs. Jul 25, 2024 · Essential Techniques for Crack Climbing. wqqolziqmcriaskczhtedtngpnpovnrddlpkxjuurridlqnvaazg