Shoulder length sling climbing reddit. The home of Climbing on reddit.
Shoulder length sling climbing reddit.
Depends on your local climbing area.
Shoulder length sling climbing reddit This actually isn't a terrible technique, it's what Chris Mac recommends in his new book. Useful for clipping into anchors, switching to rappel quickly without ever being being unprotected, and great for multiple raps for the above two reasons. And yes we are scared of falling. I personally dont like using sport draws for trad climbing so I carry 10 regular shoulder length slings and 2 double length slings on longer stuff, all racked with 2 carabiners on my harness. I only carry webbing while climbing for use in bail anchors, but for canyoneering where it is super common I would use the 1in tubular webbing. It's also the standard alpine draw length. 11+ trad, then youre probably better off losing 1/2lb body weight or getting more skill/experience. If the climb is very straight I’ll rack on regular quickdraws. For an alpine rack I would carry less cams, more nuts, some 60cm alpine qd and two 120cm slings with biners clipped end to end around chest. 8mm Mammut dyneema stitched sling, I think it's 180cm- carry on glacier slogs for crevasse rescue anchor building 8mm Mammut dyneema shoulder-length stitched sling - girth hitched to picket(s) How many folks here use 6mm (or smaller) for rock anchors? 7mm? Also curious about the dyneema slings in the alpine. If I had to use double length slings, I would almost certainly use a cordelette. For long, traversing routes I will take the whole kit and kaboodle. Two anchor pieces, each about the size of a draw on your harness, and pretty darn light. e. If 1/2lb makes it breaks your climb and you're not climbing 5. I usually carry 3 biner and 3 locking biner, 2 short prussic (shoulder length) and a long one (double shoulder length), a couple of ice screws and at least one snow stake. No bail gear? Then I would set aside 4-6 shoulder length slings, each with a single non-locker clipped on, and have those slings over my shoulder. Also, try to rack gear on your harness as you are cleaning in the same way that you would rack it when you are leading. how you rack them tends to be personal preference, but I usually keep a couple on my harness as alpine draws and keep the rest slung over a shoulder (most w/ 2 carabiners, some w/ 1) Anchors: You can use cordallete or slings (120cm or 240cm, nylon or dyneema). What are common sling lengths folks find useful for tree work? I have a bunch of webbing and I’d like to make some beer-knotted slings. Another method that works in a pinch is to use two slings or a Prusik and a long sling with a friction knot. The climbing rope between the two friction knots is slightly slack and the inexpensive sling takes the load over the abrasive edge. 4-6 lockers, with at least two being dedicated solely for top roping and one being dedicated for your belay device. Clip a normal alpine draw to the cam sling. How many cams and alpine qd depends on how hard the climb would be, but general scrambling with some small pitch climbing around 4 cams and 6 qd, but I' 8 shoulder lengths (2 with light weight lockers), 2-4 dbl. Longer slings are more effective at reducing rope drag than a quickdraw, but are also heavier and bulkier. If you need your hands free then you can try a shoulder strap (I use the Peak Design leash but there are other more padded ones). 75-3 range, a set of dmm offset alloys, ange L on all the cams and a dmm leashed nut tool. So your calculations shoud go like this : 2*(rating oft the sling)*0. And honestly, two equallettes isn't bad. 5 trad draws (shoulder length slings + 2 snapgates for each) 2-3 double length slings Quadruple length sling or cordelette + 3-4 locking biners for anchors Hexes, small cams, big cams, offset nuts, extra tricams and all of that can come later when he has a better idea of what he wants. My trad sling stash consists of 6 floppy, thin quickdraws, 8 single length alpines, and 2 double length alpines. Some areas may have bolted anchors that are easily accessible, in which case you'll just need slings and some more biners. I would limit the extra stuff to one shoulder length sling, with two lockers and an ATC Three choices. Please be also advised, that the knot in the sling will reduce the holding power of the sling. Ignore the cam racking carabiner, just let it hang there unused. (Like 1/2lb). " Posted by u/stochastica - 7 votes and 48 comments I also really like to keep 1 or 2 lengths of cord, still 6 mm, About the same loop length of a shoulder length sling because I could use that as an Emergency runner if I need to. Girth hitched through waist and leg loop points so my belay loop stays open. ) are a useful length—roughly 2 or 3 times longer than most quickdraws; they're a good length to wear over a shoulder or as an alpine You will find that using a single sling for pas and for other purposes is not practical as you will spend unnecessary time tying and untying knots rather than climbing! And I second the advice to get a 120cm sling for general purpose (anchor building, alpine draw, etc. 6 is a good start if you supplement with sport draws for long pitches. If you dont have the money or the strength to spare for a shoulder sling and a double shoulder length sling, butbyou have the money and strength for an extra draw, you are asking for trouble or a bad time. Fold it over on itself and clip the other end of the sling into your belay loop with a locker. Or, the same solutions- a sling and 2 draws. Because both of your ascenders are toothed ascenders take special care to make sure your setup is auto feeding, you really don't want to whip onto an ascender, both because ascenders cut ropes at like 4kn of force, and also because you will fuck up the sheath of your 30 meters seems like a lot of material for an anchor considering most ropes for climbing are 60-70m. Time isn't the enemy; same as the deal with climbing ropes: per Pit Shubert's paper, it's USE, not AGE. That way, if you need to fully extend a cam, you can just pull the sling off your shoulder, and clip it to the biner thats already on the cam, and clip the rope to the biner that was already on the sling. shoulder lengths (1 locker apiece), 2 sport draws, 25' of cordelette, at least one of the dbl shoulder slings from knotted tube webbing. I'd say acquire a 3 or just bring all 3 of your 1 and 2 and you should be fine. I have 6 alpines (60cm/ shoulder length sling, Camp Photons on both sides), and my main partners have at least 6 if not more. I prefer the mental comfort of not using a largely dyneema sling (DONT JUDGE ME BEARBREEDER), so I use this sling, rather than this dynex/dyneema (basically the same thing) sling. For top roping, you can buy about 40 ft. That's 12 pieces of gear for a pitch, without including the anchor or any that you could clip directly. The only thing that's off is him using a shoulder length sling instead of an aider, puts his foot really high. Will deploy… For bolted stations it's more convenient to just use a double-length sling (either premade or your own webbing one). . Single-length slings (60cm/24 in. A shoulder strap will take the weight off of your neck and spread it across your shoulder and back. Mammut contact sling is my personal favorite. This should cover roping up and crevasse rescue on glaciated terrain, I expect my partner(s) to carry a similar set up. without a dynamic element in the system between you and the anchor, like a climbing rope) will generate far more than 2kN of force, and will likely result in slings breaking, injury, bolts popping, etc. Clip the sling to the two bolts, then pull the center down to equalize, then do an overhand or 8 on a bight to create a master point. You can use a bungee or a double length sling or two shoulder length slings. Then grab a "runner" aka "shoulder length sling," and two carabiners. I normally bring 6-8 alpine draws for clipping bolts, nuts and other protection that requires two carabiners. If you already have some QDs from sport climbing, you can bring those, but I rarely do. While in the pack to-and-from the crag, I take all the shoulder length slings and stack them together and tie a big overhand knot in the middle with them. Carry a few single length slings over a shoulder with one carabiner attached. See full list on outdoorgearlab. 3-3, a few micro cams in the C3 range, a single set of nuts, 6-8 quickdraws, 6-8 shoulder length slings, anchor gear, and a belay device and that's all. For most climbs in the Valley ideally you'd want doubles of C4s . Reply For my smaller cams (Black Diamond X4s) I always extend with at least a quickdraw, and frequently with a full shoulder-length sling. Check for burrs or any other aspects that could damage a sling before making an alpine draw with them. Usually bring 8-10 alpine shoulder length draws, 3 double length slings with carabiners over the shoulder ( for extension, anchor building, slinging shit, and rap tether), and often like 4 regular lightweight sport draws. 10-15x 60cm ('shoulder-length') slings. Sep 19, 2019 · Rappel extensions started becoming in vogue around 2006 after a climbing accident in Wyoming where a friction hitch backup was likely tended or pushed down by the device causing the climber to lose control and eventually rappel off the end of the rope. Grigri, ATC, prusik, triple or quad length sling or a cordalette, bail gear, etc. Posted by u/baffled88 - 6 votes and 15 comments Including but not limited to- using three biners one 2 draws. There is a proper way to do it with a double-shoulder length sling if anyone didn't know already When cleaning shoulder/double-shoulder length slings, always sling them the same way (over the same shoulder) in order to make the transition smoother without a clusterfuck of slings to sort out. Sling Length. 1. Posted by u/WildWilly29 - 5 votes and 29 comments Five to ten shoulder slings for extending pieces (24 inch/60cm length is most common) Two or three double shoulder length slings, useful for building anchors on bolts (48 inch/120cm) A few free non-locking carabiners for extending pieces and other things; One or two large locking carabiners for the anchor masterpoint I like to use a shoulder length with a figure 8 in the middle. 1). Not sure what kind of impulse equations you're looking at, but a factor 2 fall on your dyneema sling connected directly to an anchor (i. of tubular 1" webbing and cut it into lengths to make you own double length, or even larger, tied slings. Then I take my double lengths, fold in half, and then overhand them all together. 5 = breaking force oft the system //the 0. I don't usually take them all, but it's pretty common for me to take 4-6 quickdraws, 4-6 alpines, and one double length alpine just in case. Posted by u/shredwhiteandblue - 2 votes and 21 comments "The other most important thing is that the sling should be minimalistic, comfortable and full strength so that you’ll always have one last shoulder length sling to whip out if you run out of runners to extend a crucial piece, or if you arrive at the anchor with nothing and you need something to clip in with. The home of Climbing on reddit. Depends on your local climbing area. Method two is using two quickdraws and double backing them (clipping them in opposite directions) to yourself and the anchor. Just wondering how many Alpine Draws, Quick Draws, and Single-Biner slings you guys carry for normal single pitch cragging? I normally have 5 single length alpines, 1 double length alpine, and one single length alpine with lockers on my harness - no empty or single biner slings or QDs. I have both, I will use my dynex slings to extend my master point. Very versatile edit for clarity: The smaller your friction knot diameter is the more it Bites. No sling on thumb loop action here. And you don't need so many short draws if you're not sport climbing. Slings, doesn't really matter. Cowtail the sling (120cm', or whatever length you prefer)to yourself via belay loop and attach the carabiner to the anchor point. Double or triple length slings has been go my go-to multipitch setup for 95% of gear anchors in the US for a while now. And I absolutely agree on if the bolts are further spaced apart than usual. So, friction knot > carabiner > friction knot. Some people I know like to extend the belay loop on their harness with a shoulder length sling, clip their atc to the top of that for rapping, and put the auto-block on their belay loop so that it is load bearing. two triple length slings with a locker on them. 6 depending in the knot //the 2 comes from the fact that you have 2 strings when knoting cord together In normal multipitch id much rather have trad draws with 2 biners than single biner. If you want to be cheap, you can inspect your sport draw biners and see if they're alright to use for the alpine draws. Another popular length is 120cm (48"), a sling that is most frequently used for equalizing multiple pieces of protection in an anchor. And for reference, he's climbed El Cap a few more times than you. I usually only need two single length slings to create the anchor. You don't need the tricams or torque nuts. com Sep 28, 2018 · I suspect you're relying on JHealy's test results on his (well used) skinny slings. the knot might snag. Double the sling over, grab both loops, twist, then clip them back to the locker in a good, twisty mess. Therefore when racking my X4s on my harness, I often just rack them on alpine draws. Climbing in Yosemite, for example, will often give you two bolts in close proximity if you have bolted anchors at all. If you have like 2-4 small draws, 4-6 longer ones and 4 alpines that should cover you for most stuff. -one sewn sling, double shoulder length (120 cm), to make a sliding x/equallete. Slings rated to be used for mountaineering and rock climbing will be most commonly denoted by a label at the seam reading “EN566” or another certification like a "UIAA”, which is sometimes found on the 1. The only issue I can see with making your own is if you make a normal length sling, and double it so it's shorter as a quick-draw, there might be some hanky panky if you're trying to extend it to the regular length by unclipping the biner, clipping 1 strand and then pulling. 3 double length slings as well You got it! Single length, shoulder length, and 60cm all refer to the same size. Alpine draws are more useful because you can extend them. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. while youre on thr subject, i highly recommend getting a few shoulder length slings and putting a single non locker on each one. I use the auto-block with only a couple loops, because the number in the video makes it really slow to rap, but definitely start slow. Jun 3, 2022 · To extend your device, use a double-shoulder-length sling or your personal anchor system (PAS). But I have countered with my own test results on skinny slings which see very little use, and they were still going strong after 5+ years. Assuming they have a full sport rack I'd go with 6x mammut contact slings, bd c4s . Enough carabiners for all of that (except the cord) to have 2 per sling/draw. If there are bolted anchors just get a double shoulder length sling and 4 locking biners. 3 to 0. I started climbing by sport climbing and picked up Petzl spirit draws from the get go. The rappel extension helps eliminate this issue If you don't need both your hands free then a hand strap (I use the Peak Design Clutch) can take the load off. Slings come in a variety of lengths, widths and weights. You could attach the sling to the belt with a carabiner, or probably girth hitch the sling to the belt, as a fall would be unlikely to generate enough heat to melt the slings (but still possible, id qgo with the biner) then the other carabiner is used to clip to the cables. Girth-hitch the sling through the two tie-in points on your harness and snug it up, keeping the bar tack close to your belay loop (fig. As far as brands go, I absolutely recommend the mammut dyneema slings. On here sits all the extra stuff. thus, you dont have to feel like you wasting a biner every time you clip a draw to the cam's sling. keeps them from snagging the gear in the bag or making huge rat's nests. Your setups lacks these 60cm slings right now. I use a 240 centimeter sling for trad anchors and it works for many different types of anchors as well as being lighter than the same amount of cord. Put all the cams and whatever nuts/hexes you use regularly on a shoulder length sling Put all your draws on another sling But all other pro on another sling Sling one and two go in a pack with your harness, rope, shoes, chalk bag, helmet, belay device all ready to rage. 3-4 with doubles in the . Take some additional 60cm slings according to route length Quickdraws/Slings/'biners 6 pre made "stubby" quickdraws draws, 4 shoulder length slings, 2 double shoulder length slings, 25' of 7-8mm accessory cord. Five to ten shoulder slings for extending pieces (24 inch/60cm length is most common) Two or three double shoulder length slings, useful for building anchors on bolts (48 inch/120cm) A few free non-locking carabiners for extending pieces and other things; One or two large locking carabiners for the anchor masterpoint I haven't carried cordalettes for years. EDIT: Here's the link. that way, if you want to extend a piece, you just clip that sling to the biner thats already on the cam, and clip the rope to the biner on the sling. Sep 25, 2020 · Proper climbing slings will be sewn together using a bar tack technique and will be rated to a minimum breaking strength of 22kN. Honestly they are just a joy to clip and when I got into trad I just picked up some dyneema shoulder length slings and switched some of the biners off my sport draws onto them and made alpine draws. Left Rear: alpine draws and maybe a double length runner for super extended placements. 5 can vary from 0. Futzing with over the shoulder slings sucks more then carrying an extra 10 carabiners. Also, he needs to learn how to use the trigger. Middle Rear (5th loop): Bought my Petzl Aquila specifically for this loop for trad climbing. Clip the other two biners around the lower section (should be 4 strands) then rope goes into those biners. ) nylon sling will last much longer and hold up to more wear and tear so Sep 1, 2023 · The most commonly used length is 60cm (or 24"), which is commonly referred to as “shoulder-length,” and most frequently used to extend a piece of climbing protection to reduce rope drag on the leader. Then I'll have 6 shoulder length slings with a single carabiner slung on my shoulder to use for clipping cams since they already have carabiners on them. qifykcmpdgmhmmksavehbtecouxpqiyvlhsskrkpmmwrikknvlv